The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.
This is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city town centre.
"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of growers who produce wine from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Around the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve land from construction by establishing long-term, productive farming plots inside cities," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Polish Variety
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production
Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a city street."
Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making vintage."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the juice," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and then incorporate a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to install a barrier on